Saturday, May 4, 2013

Elderflower Cordial. Not Lemon Syrup with Elderflower Undertones.


I've made elderflower cordial for a couple of years now and every year that I make it, I think 'I should have just made lemon syrup and saved myself a lot of time and trouble'.

I've tasted commercially produced cordials from Europe and they don't seem to be nearly as 'lemony' as the stuff we make at home here.  The commercially prepared cordial tastes like elderflower with a bit of lemon for tartness.  Yes, it does have some 'artificial flavors  along with the natural ones, but it tastes a lot better than the 'lemon with floral undertones cordial' that the internet recipes produce.

Almost every recipe that I've seen calls for 3 or 4 whole lemons.  That's a lot of lemon.  Most recipes also call for boiling the flowers, or at the very least, using boiling water.  The floral properties of the elderflower seem so fragile and delicate, that it I think that they're easily destroyed by heat.  Flowers that are sweet and fragrant going in to the 'dunk' don't seem to transfer their lovely properties to the hot syrup and the overpowering lemons become prominent   Of course, you need a little tartness to balance the saccharine sweetness of the syrup, but we're after a balance here, not a lemon syrup with a few floral undertones.

If you didn't read my earlier blog about how to handle fresh elderflowers, here's a recap:
-Pick elderflowers that are more cream-colored and less green-colored.  You'll be able to compare the flowers on the tree to understand this.  The greener flowers have unopened buds and won't add flavor.
-Make sure the flowers aren't dropping off the coymb.  If they are, that head of flowers is too old.  Leave them to produce berries for later use.
-Don't pick the flowers, put them in your pack, and continue on a few hour hike.  The flowers will develop an unpleasant odor.  Bring them home and refrigerate them.
-Don't rinse the flowers prior to using them.  You'll wash away a lot of the delicate pollen which is where a lot of flavor comes from.  Just shake them gently to get the bugs out.  You'll find other bugs as you process the flowers and be able to remove them then, too.
-Remove all the green stems.  Don't worry about the tiny white pedicles that hold the flowers on the stem.  Yes, I know that seems like a big chore, but once you get the technique down (hold the blooms between your middle finger and forefinger and snip-snip-snip with the scissors) it goes pretty quickly.  If you leave many green stems on, they add a 'rank' flavor to whatever your making.  Besides, everthing on an elder other than the blooms and the berries are toxic.
-When you've cleaned out your bag, you may find quite a bit of pollen sticking to it's sides and bottom.  Be sure to add that to whatever it is that you're cooking.  The pollen adds flavor and is responsible for a lot of the sunshine color in your cordial.

For the cordial:
Use between 20 and 30 flower heads.  Flower heads vary in size of course, so just use your judgement.  You want to leave plenty of blooms for berry production, so take your blooms from several trees.
Make about 8 cups of simple syrup (1:1) and let it cool to about 100 degrees.
Pour it over the prepared flowers (see above).
Add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.  If you like, add a bit of lemon rind, but don't go overboard.  Actually, you caould add all kind sof citrus instead of lemons.  Try blood orange.  Try limes.  Try a Meyer lemon.

Add 2 teaspoons of citric acid.  (Both the citric acid and the lemon juice helps to balance out the flavor of the cordial and the citric acid also acts as an anti oxidant to help preserve the color and as a natural preservative.
Cover and let macerate for 2 days.
Strain.

At this point the cordial is perfectly good to bottle.  But I wanted to 'amp' up the elderflower flavor, so I did a sort of 'double-infusion', which sounds more complicated than it is.  I gathered another 20 heads of elderflower, prepared them, added them to the syrup that I just strained and let them sit for another two day.  If you wanted to add the tiniest bit of vanilla bean here, it would be a good time.

After sitting for two days, strain again and bottle.
This should keep about 4 months in the refrigerator   If you wanted to reheat the strained cordial and then water-bath can for a longer shelf life, note that you will lose a bit of the beautiful color and scent.  But it will still taste darn good.  And not over-lemony.

The jar on the right has been through a water-bath.  You can see that the heat has altered the color slightly.


3 comments:

  1. Hello - I started making elderflower cordial last year. The first day I came across an elderflower tree it smelled divine. I picked a bunch, made a huge batch of cordial, gave it away as gifts. As other trees bloomed I thought I would get the flowers from them and make more cordial (seeing as the first batch was so successful)but NONE of the other flowering trees smelled. I went back every day and no smell was detected (I must have tried 50 trees - and yes, they were elderflowers). This year I went back to my original fragrent tree, in bloom....and NO SMELL! Have you encountered this before? Do I have to wait until a specific time in the flowers maturity for the distinct elderflower smell is omitted? I can't find any information on the internet about this.

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  2. The old cookbooks and recipes say that you should gather the flowers in the morning. I could never understand what that had to do with anything. But I think that your issue and those directions both may have one thing in common, and that is 'pollen'. It's taken me years but I've noticed that the more pollen on my flowers, the brighter yellow and more fragrant the finished cordial. The pollen seems to have a lot to do with both the color and flavor of the finished product. The reason why the old cookbooks said to gather the flowers in the morning, was that was when the pollen was highest, before it was blown away by the days winds, and gathered by the insects. I'm wondering if you got the 'early' heavy pollen count of the season and it had heavier scent than the later ones. Low pollen=low fragrance has been my experience. I know this isn't a perfect answer for you, but it's really the only thing that I can think of.

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